Daniel Burnham, Columbus, and dad

This winter, the boys and I spent a few days together in Chicago.  We decided on a meaningful exploration of the Field Museum and the Museum of Science and Industry. Just off Lake Shore Drive, they are part of the architectural collection that remains from Chicago's World's Fair and Columbian Exposition.

Columbian, as in Columbus. It was part of the World's Fair held in 1893 to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus's arrival in the New World in 1492.

In the living room of our old house, my father had hung a carved bust of Christopher Columbus - which resembled a sort of ship's prow - on the wall.  He'd point up at it and say, "That Columbus statue was the centerpiece in the main entrance to the Columbian Exposition. It's priceless."

We'd look up at the balding man carved into the dark wood and suspend our disbelief in deference to his knowledge of Chicago history. And then add it to our list of dad's other priceless treasures. The centerpiece of the Fair was actually the large water pool, which represented the voyage Columbus took to the New World. But to dad, it was his statue.

The Chicago Columbian Exposition was, in large part, designed by Daniel Burnham and Frederick Law Olmsted. Burnham, born in Chicago, would eventually become a master designer of cities, including Washington, DC and, of course, his own Chicago.

After Burnham was rejected by both Harvard and Yale, he decided to apprentice as a draftsman. From there, at 26, he met John Wellborn Root and his future. Namely, Burnham and Root.

The Exposition was a prototype, a collection of iconic buildings that were to constitute what
Burnham and his colleagues thought a city should be. It followed Beaux Arts principles of design, which was the French neoclassical architectural principles of symmetry, balance, and splendor.

This collection, in prototype, became an architectural heaven of sorts for future generations. Today, the buildings house Chicago's most prized collection of natural science artifacts, artistic treasures, history, knowledge, and beauty. Things like impressionist masterpieces and a captured, life-size, World war II submarine. The buildings are now known as the Museum of Science and Industry, the Field Museum of Natural History and the Art Institute of Chicago.

I always thought that the Field Museum was an apt reference to a kind of natural history that had to do with indians, prairies and fields. Actually, it was named after Marshall Field in 1905, after Edward Ayer convinced him to be its principal benefactor. Little did he know then that it would cement a legacy Macy's would never have.

Back to my exploration with the boys. At the Field Museum, we were especially awed by the dioramas - particularly the models of native American history. These tiny depictions of early American life under glass were intricately crafted, like model train landscapes - only way cooler.

The real native Americans around Chicago - the Illinois and Miami indians - camped and trailed along the lower stretches of Lake Michigan, and they flourished on the bounties of the prairies, woodlands and, of course, the lake.

The Sauk Trail was used by many regional tribes.  It followed the southern boundary of the lake, winding between dense forests and mixed grasslands.  A mastodon trailway was found along the same path, which indicates that the indians may have been just using an old game trail. The same paths today host a mixture of modern peoples, from the destitute and dangerous (no match for even a Mastodon) to the wealthy and privileged.

Despite the mind-freezing beauty of the steel and concrete towers that bully the icy blue waters along the western shore of Lake Michigan, there is an underlying sense of tension among those who bundle along its modern trails of midways and streets.

Perhaps it is the numbing cold.  But I think it's more than that. There is implicit agreement (or at least a resigned acknowledgement) among its residents today that the city can only "work" - can only remain stable - via a complex political system of life support. It must provide for the city-employed, the under-employed, and the socially and financially destitute. All in the form of entitlements. Proffered via pensions, union contracts, bursting city payrolls, welfare, healthcare and housing.

To fuel this massive political machine, it takes sacrifice, money, and compromise. This is probably not the kind of social and political structure that World's Fair planners had in mind for future generations when they hosted the celebration in the White City.

No, Burnham and his colleagues had definitely not envisioned this. Today's city has the highest sales tax rate in the country. 550,000 residents fled the metropolitan area in the last decade. The worst bond rating in the country. 18.7% private sector unemployment in the downtown district. Violent crime rates so high that, in 2014, the mayor asked the military to help patrol the streets of Chicago - just one step away from declaring marshal law in the third largest US city. And a disparaging social media moniker of "Chiraq" - comparing the city to the war-torn country of Iraq.  

Residents and visitors are charged a gluttony of entertainment and restaurant fees, taxes, and surcharges. They endure red light photo-tickets, traffic jams, and crowds. With the parking meter system privatized to a foreign country, the city has no control over excessive parking fees. Employers are taxed and then taxed again with surcharges.

When we visited, we joked about the ridiculous prices. We'd say, 'imagine a really high cost for some simple thing, like a cup of coffee or a hot dog. Then double it.' In other words, if you can't afford a $7.99 hot dog ($8.80 with tax), a $5.29  coffee ($5.80 with tax), and a $175 red light ticket ($325 if paid late) on your lunch break - don't go out to eat. And don't go without a bodyguard.

And so, things have changed,  But we can still go to our 1893 slice of heaven, where Burnham and his contemporaries imagined a more perfect city - then built it for us, right on a beautiful lakefront. Then the city's patriarchs filled the buildings with impressionist works of art, submarines, and - my favorite - dioramas.

So maybe my dad wasn't really all that far off when he pointed up at the bust of Christopher Columbus and told us it was priceless.